Montreal

This is the third large city we have visited in just a few days.  Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal.  Enough already!  I think we are ready to leave “big city Canada” behind and head into more manageable territory.

our reception crossing into Quebec

Ottawa is a fairly nice city.   I am not saying I want to live there, but as far as eastern cities it is not bad.   There is certainly a greater sense of history here than we don't have in Victoria.  The houses are all brick and very picturesque and there are monuments scattered around everywhere.   We did the usual tourist things; explored Sparks street, saw the Houses of Parliament and went for a bike ride along the Rideau Canal. It started to rain when we got to Parliament.  I thought that was fitting.

Riding along the Rideau Canal

The ride along the Rideau Canal was very nice.   It was as if someone had put a bike trail through Beacon Hill Park.  But dead flat!  Take the prairies; add a few trees, some rocks, a lake or two, and a huge dose of humidity and you have Ontario.  Since Calgary we have been riding through a heat wave. When we got to southern Ontario they just added humidity to make sure the perspiration did not evaporate. 

I am kind of missing hills – I have not seen many since the Rockies.   There are rolling hills around Lake Superior, but from Sault Ste. Marie on there is nothing.  I know, I know – be careful what you wish for.

The ride from Ottawa to Montreal was a great ride, albeit wet.   Quebec has developed a series of bike maps that they call the Route Vert.   These are roads chosen for their rideablity and scenery.

waiting on the ferry to cross onto the Loyalist Parkway

(yes, I know it is out of chronological order- but, hey, it was a good photo!)

 And Quebec has paved shoulders!   Yes!  Remember I said it started to rain when we got to Parliament?   Well, it rained all the next day with a strong wind coming from the northeast.  Translation:  rain and wind in my face for the whole ride.  The Semi’s driving by tended to give me a nice cool shower as well. I am not complaining!   The ride was great!  When we got to Montreal I will admit to being wet and kind of cold but also quite loaded with endorphins. 

I had a riding partner for a while.  Her name was Mary and she was riding across Canada unsupported and fully loaded.  Made me feel inadequate!  She is from Portland, Oregon, had started from Glacier National Park and is headed for St. John’s NFLD.  It was nice to ride with someone for a while so that there was some conversation.   As much as I am comfortable with my own company I do find the conversation quite predictable and boring.

One weird thing:  I look for McDonald’s restaurants when I ride.   I don’t normally eat there but when I see one I know that there is a clean rest room, air-conditioning and (currently) free coffee.  Just like in Ireland when I would be looking for pubs even though I don’t drink.  Interesting how your priorities change under different circumstances.

Today we explored Montreal.   Our hotel is right on the edge of “the Village”.   The Village is Montreal’s version of Vancouver’s West End except bigger, more flamboyant and more swish.  We went down to Old Montreal and poked around there for a bit.  It really reminds me of a European city with its narrow, cobbled streets and tall stone buildings.

Telen in Old Montreal

The Canadian souvenir shops with their junk and really tacky t-shirts spoil the ambience somewhat.  Not to mention the glaring signs advertising poutine and Montreal smoked meat sandwiches…

  We then explored Rue St. Catherine and Rue St. Denis.  We saw the St. Denis Theatre where "Just for Laughs" is held.  Rue St. Denis is loaded cheek to jowl with small shops and restaurants for as far as the eye can see.   Most of Rue St. Catherine is closed off to vehicle traffic and is cheek to jowl with people.   Maybe Government Street could learn by example…

So, tonight we are off to find Montreal smoked meat sandwiches and poutine.   I hope we survive.